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Dollhouse Miniature Printables

So, you’re looking for tips on printing your own dollhouse miniatures? You’ve come to the right place! I’ve been printing in 1:12 scale for a number of years now, so I thought I’d pass along a few of my favorite product suggestions and other tricks of the trade.

Paper:

My most commonly used paper is Canon Pixma Matte Photo Paper (MP-101). It has excellent saturation and is perfect for fine detail.

Some of my other favorite papers include:

  • HP Premium 32: This is slightly heavier (32 lb) than standard copy paper, but it’s very smooth and yields great results if you want something just a little more sturdy than copy paper.
  • Uinkit 37lb Thin Flyer Paper Glossy: This is a thin glossy paper that folds easily, making it great for printable packaging, etc.
  • C. Jenkins Freezer Paper Sheets: These sheets are 8.5 x 11 and allow you to print on fabric, napkins, etc. by ironing them on to the shiny side of the freezer paper.

Tools:

  • Round Paper Punches, various sizes: These make punching out printable paper plates very easy! I use a 3/4″ diameter punch for paper plates.
  • Circle Guide Template: This is great to have in your stash. I use the 9/16″ circle with my paper plates to shape them.
  • Ball Styluses, various sizes: These help with shaping paper plates if you don’t have a plate-making jig.
  • Craft Foam Sheet: This provides a slight bit of resistance that is helpful when shaping paper items.
  • Gloss Mod Podge: I often apply a thin coat of gloss mod podge to my printables for a light satin finish. It also makes them a little more sturdy.
  • Bone Folder: Along with a straight edge metal ruler, this is essential for scoring and folding!

I hope some of these suggestions help! Be sure to bookmark this page, as I will add more tips as I continue to learn new techniques myself!

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The Ultimate Guide to Organizing Your Miniature Collection

Do you have a miniature collection that’s starting to get out of hand? Are you tired of digging through boxes to find the perfect piece for your display? Have you found yourself wasting precious time searching for a mini you know you have but just can’t locate? Or have you ever ended up with duplicates by accident? If you can relate to any of those frustrations, it’s probably time to organize your collection!

Organizing your miniature collection doesn’t have to be difficult. With a little planning and effort, you can create a system that works for you and keeps your miniatures safe and easy to find.

A photo of a miniature organizer full of miniatures. The organizer is made of clear plastic, and it has several compartments of different sizes. The miniatures are arranged in a variety of poses and settings, and they are all very detailed. The organizer is a great way to store and display your miniature collection.

Here are a few tips for organizing your miniature collection:

Start by sorting your miniatures by type.

This will help you to see what you have and make it easier to find what you’re looking for. You can sort your miniatures by theme or category, scale, artist, or any other criteria that makes sense to you. I like to sort by holidays and seasons, for starters.

While you’re sorting, this is a great opportunity to create an inventory to track your collectible miniatures and their values. When your collection reaches a certain size, this is invaluable for insurance purposes.

I created a quick spreadsheet to help you start your inventory – you can get a copy of the .CSV file by clicking here.

Once you’ve sorted your miniatures, it’s time to find a storage solution.

There are a variety of storage options available, so you can choose one that fits your needs and budget. Some popular options include:

Storage Boxes

Storage boxes are a great option for storing miniatures. They come in a variety of sizes and materials, so you can find one that fits your needs.

  • Some of my favorites are actually hardware/parts storage units like the Akro-Mils 44 Drawer Plastic Parts Storage, as they’re perfect for minis!
  • I also like to use bead organizers for jewelry makers. Just make sure you get the kind where the divider goes all the way to the top so your miniatures don’t shift or spill into other dividers when moving the organizer. Some come with fixed dividers, but others have adjustable dividers (like this 36 Compartment Bead Storage Container) so you can make larger compartments as needed.
  • For storing larger pieces like dollhouse furniture, you can’t go wrong with plastic shoe boxes since they stack really well. I like these clear IRIS Plastic Storage Container Bins so you can see everything inside.

Display Cases

Display cases are a great way to show off your miniatures. They come in a variety of styles, so you can find one that matches your décor. Glass enclosed cases are the best choice to keep as much dust as possible off your collection (not to mention curious cats or nosy dogs).

I’m fortunate enough to have a built-in case in my studio, and my husband outfitted it with LED lights so that you can see every detail!

A miniature display case filled with a variety of miniature figures and objects. The case is made of wood and glass, and it is illuminated from within. The miniatures are arranged in a variety of poses and settings, and they are all very detailed. The display case is a beautiful and unique way to display your miniature collection.

Update: I just saw an AMAZING idea from @suessmallobsession on Instagram where she used a mirrored Hotwheels/Matchbox Car Clear Acrylic Display Case for all her holiday minis. Brilliant!!

Wall-Mounted Shelves

Wall-mounted shelves are a great way to save space. They’re also a great way to display your miniatures, as they’re easy to see and access. As these are generally open air, I would avoid putting your most valuable items on these shelves to protect them from accidental damage, dust and UV exposure.

No matter what storage solution you choose, make sure to label everything.

This will help you to find what you’re looking for quickly and easily. My Brother P-Touch Label Maker is a life saver in this regard! There are fancier versions of label makers out there, but this simple battery-operated one is inexpensive and has worked for me for years now.

A photo of clear plastic organizers full of miniatures.

Once your miniatures are stored, take some time to display them.

This is a great way to show off your collection and add some personality to your home. There are a variety of ways to display miniatures, so get creative!

By following these tips, you can easily organize your miniature collection and keep it looking its best. So what are you waiting for? For me, it’s a continuous work in progress, but I’m on my way to a fully organized collection!

Some of the links on this site are affiliate links, meaning that I may receive a small commission if you click on them and make a purchase. This is at no additional cost to you. I only recommend products or services that I have personally used and believe in, and I only use affiliate links for products or services that I think would be helpful to my readers.

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How to Make Miniature No-Sew Shopping Bags

With Earth Day this past month and an effort to be more eco-friendly, I knew a miniature reusable shopping bag was in order!

This dollhouse miniature no-sew shopping bags tutorial couldn’t be easier, and you can make them in any color or style you choose! So, let’s say farewell to plastic grocery bags and get started!

Learn how to make dollhouse miniature no-sew shopping bags

What You Need to Make Miniature No-Sew Shopping Bags

I don’t know about you, but I love no-sew projects, and this one is SO easy that it’s perfect for beginners. It’s also very inexpensive to make! Here’s a little more about the materials I used:

Materials to make miniature no-sew shopping bags

Lightweight Cotton Fabric

Since these bags don’t require sewing, I actually like a lighter weight fabric for this project. I used a light linen color, but you can use any color or pattern you like! Just stick with thinner, natural materials – I haven’t tried synthetics and don’t know how well the glue would hold for those.

Tacky Glue

As I’ve mentioned before, this Quick Dry Tacky Glue by Aleene’s is my favorite and it dries pretty quickly with the fabric in this project. Also, fun fact: you can bond your fabric with glue almost instantly with a quick pass of the iron. And I do mean quick! Just don’t let it get too hot or you’ll have a singed, sticky mess.

Suede Cord

For the bag handles, I used 2.6mm Suede Cord that comes from the jewelry and beading section at the craft store. I love the way it looks, but you could substitute ribbon or other cording if you prefer. However, I’d stick to something that’s flat rather than rounded.

Craft Wood

I used little unfinished wood rectangles that came in an assortment from the craft store. They’re very thin and a little rough out of the bag, so give them a quick sand before you get started. The piece I used measures 1-1/2″ long by 3/4″ tall. However, this project affords a lot of flexibility in terms of size, so you can use a different sized base if you like. I’ll give you tips for calculating the measurements below.

Rotary Cutter

This isn’t required – you can use fabric scissors, but I like the Fiskars Rotary Cutter with a steel-edged ruler to get clean, straight cuts on the fabric.

Fabric Transfer Paper

If you want your bag to have a logo or graphic, you’ll want to use fabric transfer paper that you print on your inkjet printer. I like the Avery Printable Heat Transfer Paper for Light Fabrics and use it for a wide variety of projects.

Fill your miniature shopping bag with groceries and other goods from the market

Tips for Making No-Sew Shopping Bags for Your Dollhouse

Ironing

You’ll need an iron to press the hems on the fabric and to iron on the transfer (if you’re using one). Any average household iron will do, but if you like making miniatures, I highly recommend the Clover Mini Iron. This makes working with small pieces SO much easier. And fewer burned digits. Trust me.

Check the instructions on the transfer paper for what iron setting you should use. Generally speaking, though, you should use a dry setting (no steam) and don’t let it get too hot – this can cause the fabric and the transfer to discolor.

Mirror Your Graphics

If you decide you want to include a graphic on your bag, make sure you remember to reverse/mirror the image before printing it. That way, when you iron it on, it’ll be facing the right way.

Resizing

For this project, I’m giving specific measurements for the wood, fabric and suede cord; however, you can definitely resize your bag as desired by measuring your wood base to calculate the size of the fabric you’ll need:

Length of fabric = (2 x Length of wood base) + (2 x Width of wood base) + 1/2″

Width of fabric = Desired height of finished bag + 1/4″

So, for example: If your wood base measures 1″ long by 1/2″ tall, your fabric will need to be (2 x 1″) + (2 x 1/2″) + 1/2″ = 3-1/2″ in length. And if you want the bag to stand at 1-1/2″ tall, you’ll need the fabric to be 1-3/4″ tall.

This formula doesn’t give you a lot of extra fabric to work with, so if you’re feeling unsure, add another 1/2″ in length and you can trim it down when you’re ready to assemble the bag. Better to have a little extra than not enough!

Centering the Iron-On Transfer

Getting the placement of the graphic just right is a little tricky. I just eyeballed it, but the best way to test the placement is to pick up your rectangle of fabric and hold the unhemmed short end near the center of the long edge of the base. Then wrap it around the base fairly tightly. The hemmed short end should overlap the unhemmed short end just slightly. You can take a pencil and make a very light mark near the center of the front panel to help you when you place your transfer.

How to Make Miniature No-Sew Shopping Bags

How to Make Miniature No-Sew Shopping Bags

Yield: 1
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Active Time: 10 minutes
Additional Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Beginner

Learn how to make no-sew shopping bags for your dollhouse!

Materials

  • Lightweight cotton fabric
  • Tacky glue
  • Craft wood - 1-1/2" by 3/4"
  • 2-3 mm suede cord
  • Optional: Fabric heat transfer paper

Tools

  • Scissors
  • Ruler
  • Self-healing mat
  • Rotary fabric cutter
  • Iron
  • Optional: Inkjet printer

Instructions

  1. Take your wood base and glue it onto a piece of the fabric. Allow to dry for a few minutes and then trim around the edges with scissors. Repeat for the other side of the wood base.


  2. Lay your fabric out on a self-healing mat and cut a rectangle with your ruler and rotary cutter measuring 5" long and 1-1/2" tall. If you're resizing this project, please refer to my tips above for calculating the dimensions.


  3. Heat up your iron and move to a heat-safe surface. Fold the fabric of one short side over about 1/8" and press with the iron. Also fold and press 1/8" on both long sides. Once these are firmly pressed, run a small bead of tacky glue under each fold and hold in place until the glue begins to set.



    To reduce the bulk a little when assembling the bag, I leave one of the short ends unhemmed. You really won't see this when you have items in the bag, but you can hem all edges if you'd prefer.
  4. If you're not using an iron-on transfer, skip to Step 6.
    Print your graphic (make sure it's mirrored) on your inkjet on the heat transfer paper. Use the best quality settings you can. The graphic I printed for this project is about 1" wide and 5/8" tall. Cut it down to size, leaving a small border around the graphic. You don't have to get very close when cutting it because it will be transparent when you iron it on.


  5. With the hemmed edges facing down and the unhemmed edge on your right, iron on the transfer in the center of the rectangle (see tip above for placing the graphic correctly). Apply even pressure and make sure to go over it several times. Go over the edges carefully, too. Allow this to cool a few minutes, then carefully peel away the paper backing. If the backing isn't coming away clean and the transfer isn't sticking, you need to put it back and iron some more!


  6. Apply tacky glue to the side of your fabric-covered wood base. Start at the center of one of the long edges and apply a thin bead all the way to one of the short edges. Start with the unhemmed short edge and carefully align the bottom of your long hemmed edge with the bottom of the base and wrap it around the side. Wipe away any excess glue as you go.


  7. Continue to apply tacky glue along the front and opposite side of the base and press firmly to adhere. When the fabric is wrapped around three sides, add glue to the back of the base and along the hemmed short edge.


  8. Carefully press the hemmed edge in place over top of the unhemmed edge, making sure the top and bottom are aligned neatly. You can clamp this in place while it dries. You now have a clean, finished seam at the back of the bag.


  9. Cut two 4" lengths of suede cord. You can make these longer or shorter if you'd like, but I think 4" creates a nice handle length. Before applying glue, see where you want to place the handles. I adhered mine just on either side of my Farmers Market graphic. Apply a very thin bead of glue on the length of cord that will touch the bag and clamp in place to dry.



    Once dry, curve the cord into a U-shape and glue the other end down in place. Clamp to dry, then repeat on the back side of the bag.
  10. Once all the glue has dried, you have a fun little reusable shopping bag you can load up with mini groceries! To make mine look extra full, I placed a little bit of polyfill at the bottom of the bag and then added the groceries on top of it.

Notes

© 2021 Erika Pitera, The Petite Provisions Co.

This tutorial is for personal use only. Please do not repost it without permission. Sharing a link with attribution is fine!

Please feel free to tag me on Facebook or Instagram @petiteprovisionsco with your version of these miniature shopping bags, and let me know if you have any questions!

Some of the links on this site are affiliate links, meaning that I may receive a small commission if you click on them and make a purchase. This is at no additional cost to you. I only recommend products or services that I have personally used and believe in, and I only use affiliate links for products or services that I think would be helpful to my readers.

How to Make Miniature No-Sew Shopping Bags Read More »

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