Do you have a miniature collection that’s starting to get out of hand? Are you tired of digging through boxes to find the perfect piece for your display? Have you found yourself wasting precious time searching for a mini you know you have but just can’t locate? Or have you ever ended up with duplicates by accident? If you can relate to any of those frustrations, it’s probably time to organize your collection!
Organizing your miniature collection doesn’t have to be difficult. With a little planning and effort, you can create a system that works for you and keeps your miniatures safe and easy to find.
Here are a few tips for organizing your miniature collection:
Start by sorting your miniatures by type.
This will help you to see what you have and make it easier to find what you’re looking for. You can sort your miniatures by theme or category, scale, artist, or any other criteria that makes sense to you. I like to sort by holidays and seasons, for starters.
While you’re sorting, this is a great opportunity to create an inventory to track your collectible miniatures and their values. When your collection reaches a certain size, this is invaluable for insurance purposes.
I created a quick spreadsheet to help you start your inventory – you can get a copy of the .CSV file by clicking here.
Once you’ve sorted your miniatures, it’s time to find a storage solution.
There are a variety of storage options available, so you can choose one that fits your needs and budget. Some popular options include:
Storage Boxes
Storage boxes are a great option for storing miniatures. They come in a variety of sizes and materials, so you can find one that fits your needs.
I also like to use bead organizers for jewelry makers. Just make sure you get the kind where the divider goes all the way to the top so your miniatures don’t shift or spill into other dividers when moving the organizer. Some come with fixed dividers, but others have adjustable dividers (like this 36 Compartment Bead Storage Container) so you can make larger compartments as needed.
For storing larger pieces like dollhouse furniture, you can’t go wrong with plastic shoe boxes since they stack really well. I like these clear IRIS Plastic Storage Container Bins so you can see everything inside.
Display Cases
Display cases are a great way to show off your miniatures. They come in a variety of styles, so you can find one that matches your décor. Glass enclosed cases are the best choice to keep as much dust as possible off your collection (not to mention curious cats or nosy dogs).
I’m fortunate enough to have a built-in case in my studio, and my husband outfitted it with LED lights so that you can see every detail!
Wall-Mounted Shelves
Wall-mounted shelves are a great way to save space. They’re also a great way to display your miniatures, as they’re easy to see and access. As these are generally open air, I would avoid putting your most valuable items on these shelves to protect them from accidental damage, dust and UV exposure.
No matter what storage solution you choose, make sure to label everything.
This will help you to find what you’re looking for quickly and easily. My Brother P-Touch Label Maker is a life saver in this regard! There are fancier versions of label makers out there, but this simple battery-operated one is inexpensive and has worked for me for years now.
Once your miniatures are stored, take some time to display them.
This is a great way to show off your collection and add some personality to your home. There are a variety of ways to display miniatures, so get creative!
By following these tips, you can easily organize your miniature collection and keep it looking its best. So what are you waiting for? For me, it’s a continuous work in progress, but I’m on my way to a fully organized collection!
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links, meaning that I may receive a small commission if you click on them and make a purchase. This is at no additional cost to you. I only recommend products or services that I have personally used and believe in, and I only use affiliate links for products or services that I think would be helpful to my readers.
With Earth Day this past month and an effort to be more eco-friendly, I knew a miniature reusable shopping bag was in order!
This dollhouse miniature no-sew shopping bags tutorial couldn’t be easier, and you can make them in any color or style you choose! So, let’s say farewell to plastic grocery bags and get started!
What You Need to Make Miniature No-Sew Shopping Bags
I don’t know about you, but I love no-sew projects, and this one is SO easy that it’s perfect for beginners. It’s also very inexpensive to make! Here’s a little more about the materials I used:
Lightweight Cotton Fabric
Since these bags don’t require sewing, I actually like a lighter weight fabric for this project. I used a light linen color, but you can use any color or pattern you like! Just stick with thinner, natural materials – I haven’t tried synthetics and don’t know how well the glue would hold for those.
Tacky Glue
As I’ve mentioned before, this Quick Dry Tacky Glue by Aleene’s is my favorite and it dries pretty quickly with the fabric in this project. Also, fun fact: you can bond your fabric with glue almost instantly with a quick pass of the iron. And I do mean quick! Just don’t let it get too hot or you’ll have a singed, sticky mess.
Suede Cord
For the bag handles, I used 2.6mm Suede Cord that comes from the jewelry and beading section at the craft store. I love the way it looks, but you could substitute ribbon or other cording if you prefer. However, I’d stick to something that’s flat rather than rounded.
Craft Wood
I used little unfinished wood rectangles that came in an assortment from the craft store. They’re very thin and a little rough out of the bag, so give them a quick sand before you get started. The piece I used measures 1-1/2″ long by 3/4″ tall. However, this project affords a lot of flexibility in terms of size, so you can use a different sized base if you like. I’ll give you tips for calculating the measurements below.
Rotary Cutter
This isn’t required – you can use fabric scissors, but I like the Fiskars Rotary Cutter with a steel-edged ruler to get clean, straight cuts on the fabric.
Fabric Transfer Paper
If you want your bag to have a logo or graphic, you’ll want to use fabric transfer paper that you print on your inkjet printer. I like the Avery Printable Heat Transfer Paper for Light Fabrics and use it for a wide variety of projects.
Tips for Making No-Sew Shopping Bags for Your Dollhouse
Ironing
You’ll need an iron to press the hems on the fabric and to iron on the transfer (if you’re using one). Any average household iron will do, but if you like making miniatures, I highly recommend the Clover Mini Iron. This makes working with small pieces SO much easier. And fewer burned digits. Trust me.
Check the instructions on the transfer paper for what iron setting you should use. Generally speaking, though, you should use a dry setting (no steam) and don’t let it get too hot – this can cause the fabric and the transfer to discolor.
Mirror Your Graphics
If you decide you want to include a graphic on your bag, make sure you remember to reverse/mirror the image before printing it. That way, when you iron it on, it’ll be facing the right way.
Resizing
For this project, I’m giving specific measurements for the wood, fabric and suede cord; however, you can definitely resize your bag as desired by measuring your wood base to calculate the size of the fabric you’ll need:
Length of fabric = (2 x Length of wood base) + (2 x Width of wood base) + 1/2″
Width of fabric = Desired height of finished bag + 1/4″
So, for example: If your wood base measures 1″ long by 1/2″ tall, your fabric will need to be (2 x 1″) + (2 x 1/2″) + 1/2″ = 3-1/2″ in length. And if you want the bag to stand at 1-1/2″ tall, you’ll need the fabric to be 1-3/4″ tall.
This formula doesn’t give you a lot of extra fabric to work with, so if you’re feeling unsure, add another 1/2″ in length and you can trim it down when you’re ready to assemble the bag. Better to have a little extra than not enough!
Centering the Iron-On Transfer
Getting the placement of the graphic just right is a little tricky. I just eyeballed it, but the best way to test the placement is to pick up your rectangle of fabric and hold the unhemmed short end near the center of the long edge of the base. Then wrap it around the base fairly tightly. The hemmed short end should overlap the unhemmed short end just slightly. You can take a pencil and make a very light mark near the center of the front panel to help you when you place your transfer.
How to Make Miniature No-Sew Shopping Bags
Yield: 1
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Active Time: 10 minutes
Additional Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 20 minutes
Difficulty: Beginner
Learn how to make no-sew shopping bags for your dollhouse!
Materials
Lightweight cotton fabric
Tacky glue
Craft wood - 1-1/2" by 3/4"
2-3 mm suede cord
Optional: Fabric heat transfer paper
Tools
Scissors
Ruler
Self-healing mat
Rotary fabric cutter
Iron
Optional: Inkjet printer
Instructions
Take your wood base and glue it onto a piece of the fabric. Allow to dry for a few minutes and then trim around the edges with scissors. Repeat for the other side of the wood base.
Lay your fabric out on a self-healing mat and cut a rectangle with your ruler and rotary cutter measuring 5" long and 1-1/2" tall. If you're resizing this project, please refer to my tips above for calculating the dimensions.
Heat up your iron and move to a heat-safe surface. Fold the fabric of one short side over about 1/8" and press with the iron. Also fold and press 1/8" on both long sides. Once these are firmly pressed, run a small bead of tacky glue under each fold and hold in place until the glue begins to set.
To reduce the bulk a little when assembling the bag, I leave one of the short ends unhemmed. You really won't see this when you have items in the bag, but you can hem all edges if you'd prefer.
If you're not using an iron-on transfer, skip to Step 6. Print your graphic (make sure it's mirrored) on your inkjet on the heat transfer paper. Use the best quality settings you can. The graphic I printed for this project is about 1" wide and 5/8" tall. Cut it down to size, leaving a small border around the graphic. You don't have to get very close when cutting it because it will be transparent when you iron it on.
With the hemmed edges facing down and the unhemmed edge on your right, iron on the transfer in the center of the rectangle (see tip above for placing the graphic correctly). Apply even pressure and make sure to go over it several times. Go over the edges carefully, too. Allow this to cool a few minutes, then carefully peel away the paper backing. If the backing isn't coming away clean and the transfer isn't sticking, you need to put it back and iron some more!
Apply tacky glue to the side of your fabric-covered wood base. Start at the center of one of the long edges and apply a thin bead all the way to one of the short edges. Start with the unhemmed short edge and carefully align the bottom of your long hemmed edge with the bottom of the base and wrap it around the side. Wipe away any excess glue as you go.
Continue to apply tacky glue along the front and opposite side of the base and press firmly to adhere. When the fabric is wrapped around three sides, add glue to the back of the base and along the hemmed short edge.
Carefully press the hemmed edge in place over top of the unhemmed edge, making sure the top and bottom are aligned neatly. You can clamp this in place while it dries. You now have a clean, finished seam at the back of the bag.
Cut two 4" lengths of suede cord. You can make these longer or shorter if you'd like, but I think 4" creates a nice handle length. Before applying glue, see where you want to place the handles. I adhered mine just on either side of my Farmers Market graphic. Apply a very thin bead of glue on the length of cord that will touch the bag and clamp in place to dry.
Once dry, curve the cord into a U-shape and glue the other end down in place. Clamp to dry, then repeat on the back side of the bag.
Once all the glue has dried, you have a fun little reusable shopping bag you can load up with mini groceries! To make mine look extra full, I placed a little bit of polyfill at the bottom of the bag and then added the groceries on top of it.
This tutorial is for personal use only. Please do not repost it without permission. Sharing a link with attribution is fine!
Please feel free to tag me on Facebook or Instagram @petiteprovisionsco with your version of these miniature shopping bags, and let me know if you have any questions!
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links, meaning that I may receive a small commission if you click on them and make a purchase. This is at no additional cost to you. I only recommend products or services that I have personally used and believe in, and I only use affiliate links for products or services that I think would be helpful to my readers.
These miniature natural cotton bolls are a great way to add farmhouse charm to your dollhouse decor because they’re so versatile! Whether you make an arrangement of stems, or use them to decorate a grapevine wreath, the possibilities are endless.
After making the pussy willow branches, the only logical next step was to figure out an uncomplicated way to make natural cotton bolls (the round seed-bearing part of a cotton plant) since they’re everywhere in farmhouse-style decor right now! They use some of the same materials from the pussy willow project, as well, so that’s even better. Let’s get to it!
What You Need to Make Miniature Natural Cotton Bolls
These little raw cotton stems are a little more complicated than the pussy willow branches, but they’re still a great project for beginners. Here’s a little more about the materials I used:
Cotton Balls
Yep, literally just your drugstore variety of cotton ball. You’ll be tearing off little pieces, so even a single cotton ball will last you a while!
Alcohol Ink Markers
Alcohol ink markers are my favorite choice for coloring paper petals and leaves for a few reasons: they fully saturate the Japanese crepe paper I favor (more on that next) with bold, vibrant color; they dry almost immediately, which wins over waiting for paint to dry in my book; and they can be blended for a natural look with a blender marker.
I use the brand Spectrum Noir, and their markers are a little more budget-friendly than Copic markers. The shades I chose are EB3 and TN9. I used a combination of both to get a slight variation in color, but they’re quite similar so that’s not absolutely necessary.
That being said, you can color your paper however you like: colored pencils, watercolors, acrylics, or whatever else you have on hand! We’re just going for a nice dark brown shade on this project.
Japanese Crepe Paper
This is a special paper I learned about from Mary Kinloch. It is not the same as crepe paper that’s used for streamers. In fact, it’s actually a mulberry fiber paper, so it has a fantastic texture that works great for a lot of flowers and plants. I recommend checking Mary’s shop on eBay because she often sells it in small quantities, which is perfect if you’re just getting started. She also has an awesome selection of laser cut sheets!
Even though the crepe is my favorite, you can use other paper types for this project, as well. Experiment with different types and see what you like best. Even regular copy/printer paper will work, so don’t hesitate to try it!
Paper Punches
For this project, I used two specific punches: the Mini Birch Leaf from The Punch Bunch and the Mini Daisy Hole Puncher from EK Tools. I have a number of punches from both of these brands, and they work really well.
If you decide to use the Japanese crepe paper, I’ve found that I get a cleaner cut with the punches if I sandwich the crepe paper in between a folded sheet of regular copy paper.
Ball Stylus / Needle Tool
These tools are really handy for shaping petals and veining leaves. I found an Embossing Stylus Set by EK Tools on Amazon where one of them has a ball on one side and a needle tip on the other – that is PERFECT for this project! But if you don’t have these, don’t worry. You can actually use tweezers to shape them, too, you just have to be careful not to tear your paper.
Shaping Surface
I bought a foam pad (it’s actually similar to a mouse pad in terms of density and thickness) for shaping paper, but if you don’t have anything like that, you can actually use a rubber art eraser. You just want something with a little bit of give that will allow you to use the stylus and needle tool to shape the paper without tearing holes in it. Gentle pressure is key!
Make sure you visit my pussy willow branches tutorial for more on the glues I like to use along with the floral wire recommended for this project.
Tips for Making Natural Cotton Bolls for Your Dollhouse
If you look at pictures of cotton bolls online, you’ll see that they can range from 3 to 5 segments. As a beginner, I made mine with three, but now that I have a little practice under my belt, I may try some more with five instead. You’ll just need to make your individual cotton balls a little smaller for that to work.
Prepare Your Glue
I like to use a paint palette or a little piece of aluminum foil with a blob of white tacky glue and a small pool of superglue so I can dip the pieces in to adhere them. When you use white tacky glue and superglue together like this, it creates an almost instant bond, but you have to work quickly!
How to Make Miniature Natural Cotton Bolls
Active Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Beginner
Learn how to make natural cotton bolls for your dollhouse!
Materials
24 gauge brown floral wire
Cotton ball
Japanese crepe paper
Brown alcohol ink marker
White tacky glue
Superglue
Tools
Wire cutters
Tweezers
Mini Daisy Hole Puncher by EK Tools
Mini Birch Leaf by The Punch Bunch
Ball stylus / needle tool
Shaping surface
Paint palette or aluminum foil
Instructions
Cut 2" lengths of brown floral wire with your wire cutters. I like to have a little extra length to hold on to, and you can always trim them down afterwards as needed.
Tear off little bits from the cotton ball and roll them tightly into smaller balls. You'll need 3 for each stem.
Dip the end of your floral wire into the white tacky glue, coating about 1/8" of the way down. Pick up each of your prepared mini cotton balls with tweezers and just barely dip them into the superglue before attaching them to the floral wire.
Repeat with 2 more cotton balls so that you have a trio attached to the end. Set aside to dry.
Get your paper and punch out 1 daisy and 3 birch leaves, then color them brown with your alcohol ink marker.
Cut off each of the 6 petals from the daisy and lay them on top of your shaping surface. Use the needle tool to score a line directly down the middle so you can fold the petals in half lengthwise.
Pick up a folded petal with your tweezers and dip the folded edge in your tacky glue and then the superglue. Place the glued edge in between two of the cotton balls, pushing it in as deep toward the center as you can. Repeat with 2 more and set aside to dry. You can use your tweezers to open up the petal a little once it's nestled in place.
Grab your birch leaves and lay them on top of your shaping surface. Like with the petals, score a line directly down the middle for the vein. Then, use the ball stylus to curve the leaf.
You'll want the curl of the leaf to point downward. Pick it up with your tweezers and dip the stem in your tacky glue and then the superglue. Place it on the floral wire just under the cotton balls. Try to offset the leaf from where the petals were placed in between the balls. Repeat with 2 more and set aside to dry.
Trim your wire stems as needed to arrange in a vase or to add to a wreath. Enjoy!
This tutorial is for personal use only. Please do not repost it without permission. Sharing a link with attribution is fine!
Please feel free to tag me on Facebook or Instagram @petiteprovisionsco with your version of miniature cotton bolls, and let me know if you have any questions!
Some of the links on this site are affiliate links, meaning that I may receive a small commission if you click on them and make a purchase. This is at no additional cost to you. I only recommend products or services that I have personally used and believe in, and I only use affiliate links for products or services that I think would be helpful to my readers.
Shopping Cart
JOIN OUR MAILING LIST FOR AN EXCLUSIVE COUPON!
Plus be the first to know about new products, sales and more!
